\nKey characteristics of cashmere fiber<\/em><\/p>\n
\u203a It is the undercoat of goats, male or female of any age
\n\u203a The average thickness of the fiber cannot exceed 19 micrometers (\u00b5m)
\n\u203a The producing animals can be of various breeds. In the past, the original fiber was collected from the Cashmere breed, which is what gave it its name<\/div>\n
\u201cNo one knew what that kind of hair was,\u201d recalls the researcher. \u201cI analyzed the material under a scanning electron microscope, studied about fibers that come from animals, and discovered that the goat fibers were cashmere,\u201d she comments. However, it was not a common cashmere fiber.<\/p>\n
In order to be classified as such, the fiber needs to be up to 19 micrometers (\u00b5m) thick. Very new goat fibers are on average 14 \u00b5m. This is what is called baby cashmere, which is bought and sold directly between producers and international high-end clothing manufacturers; their prices are higher than normal and are not disclosed. For name brands, such as the Italian brands Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana, a baby cashmere sweater is sold for \u20ac2,500 (about R$11,000). The cashmere fiber obtained from Brazilian goats has a thickness that measures between 10 and 12 \u00b5m. \u201cThe intense radiation of the sun in Brazil has likely contributed to the appearance of cashmere with the finer characteristic of the Brazilian goats,\u201d explains Souza Coelho.<\/p>\n
According to J\u00falia Baruque Ramos, professor of the bachelor\u2019s program in textiles and fashion at the School of Arts, Sciences, and Humanities at the University of S\u00e3o Paulo (EACH-USP), cashmere is a noble material by virtue. \u201cThere is demand for high-quality fibers, that is, finer fibers. Brazil could be a potential exporter of this type of cashmere,\u201d she adds.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/revistapesquisa.fapesp.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/069-071_Cashmere_279-2-700px.jpg\")
Lia Souza Coelho<\/span><\/a> Zootechnician Lia Coelho during the lab analysis of fibersLia Souza Coelho<\/span><\/p><\/div>\n The research of Souza Coelho verified that, in addition to the Boer goats, animals of the breeds Saanen, Alpine, American Alpine, and Savanna\u2014all of which originated in other countries but have adapted well in Brazil\u2014as well as blends of these breeds, also produce the fiber. During her doctorate, which she finished in 2018 at UFRRJ, Souza Coelho produced the first prototypes of the thread and fabric of Brazilian cashmere. She also concluded that the Brazilian fiber uses less water during processing, generating a savings of 98% in comparison with conventional production methods. This is due to the intensive form of breeding on Brazilian farms, which contributes to obtaining cleaner fibers and thus eliminating the initial washing step\u2014in Asia, the animals are bred in the mountains and are exposed to rain and snow.<\/p>\n With the support of the Brazilian Association for the Textile Industry and Manufacturing (ABIT), the Center for Technology of the Chemical and Textile Industry of the National Service for Industrial Learning (SENAI CETIQT), and Brastema, the Brazilian representative of the Japanese manufacturer for textile equipment, Shima Seiki, the study resulted in a book, an article, and five pending patents with the National Institute of Industrial Property (INPI)\u2014another nine are being prepared for deposit. The studies were carried out in the laboratories of CBPF at S\u00e3o Paulo State University (UNESP), Araraquara campus, and of the National Institute for Industrial Technology (INTI) in Argentina. \u201cINTI has experts and equipment to carry out the physical testing of the cashmere fiber using internationally recognized standards, which is something that unfortunately does not exist in Brazil,\u201d comments the scientist.<\/p>\n Supply chain<\/strong>
\nSouza Coelho now has a team of collaborating researchers from CBPF, under the supervision of Andr\u00e9 Linhares Rossi, and she leads the Brazilian Cashmere Project, which seeks to establish a local supply chain for the textile raw material. The initiative has already been presented to the Brazilian Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock, and Supply (MAPA) and to the government of Para\u00edba, the state with the highest concentration of goat stocks. At the same time, the project team is working to demonstrate the potential for Brazilian cashmere to breeder associations.<\/p>\n